Friday, April 5, 2013

Trip Reflection Part I: Culture Shock


The title of this blog [Alyssa’s Kenya Adventure] is quite a fitting description for the 2 ½ weeks I spent in Nairobi last month.  I find it difficult to give a quick answer to the question “How was your trip?” because travelling halfway around the world to visit a health clinic is a bit different than going on a vacation.  In this first blog installment, I will attempt to bring you to Nairobi and give you a taste of the beauty, the challenges, the sights, and the people.  Enjoy.
 
The road the clinic is on
Let’s cover some of the basics of traveling to Kenya.  It takes around 21 flight hours and over 30 hours travel time to get to Nairobi, Kenya from Fresno.  Don’t forget to add in the 10 hour time difference!  For the most part, I actually enjoy airports and airplanes.  I like to think I have certain aspects of the traveling process down to a science…like going through security.  In terms of going through customs, it is relatively easy and I bought my tourist visa at the airport for $50.  My luggage arrived, which is always a small miracle.  I was greeted at the airport by Peter & Francisca Inoti, my host and the founders of the clinic.  And the adventure began…
Peter & Francisca and 2 of their 4 sons
My host family live in a modest, middle class home in a section of Nairobi called Imara Daima.  {No, I did not stay in a grass or mud hut, though they do exist in other parts of Kenya}  Imagine a suburban subdivision, though add in a few more animals and a few less luxuries like washing machines and kitchen appliances.  I was spoiled with my own room and bathroom, as their two youngest sons were away at boarding school.  Most days we had running water and electricity, though this was not a given.  I slept underneath a mosquito net and brushed my teeth with the bottled water I saved each day.

A typical day…
-Wake up around 8am.  I was glad there didn’t seem to be any rush to get out of the house!
-Shower (sometimes running water, sometimes a bucket), get dressed…I typically wore a long skirt and T-shirt (how I still managed to get hit on was truly a mystery!), spray myself with mosquito repellent & sunscreen, and slap on a little makeup
-Breakfast.  Some menu items included boiled sweet potatoes, mandaazi (fried bread), hard-boiled eggs, mango, bananas, bread, and always tea.  Their tea is heavy on the milk and sugar, and light on the tea.  I always struggled to drink even half a mug-full. 
-Head to the clinic around 10ish.  Kenyans are not time-oriented, so it is best not to expect a schedule or to make specific plans.  They live about a 15 minute walk from the clinic, though sometimes Peter would drive us, as he ran errands throughout the day.
-Spend the day at the clinic and eat lunch from the lady who runs a small restaurant across the way
-Sometimes in the afternoons, I would go with Peter into town to run errands or to pay someone a visit
-Go home sometime in the evening, anywhere between 5 and 8, depending on how busy the clinic was, if it was raining, if we were going to walk or take a matatu…
-Rest while dinner was being prepared…some days I took a nap, other times I journaled or read Les Miserables
Dinner
-Dinner around 9:30 or 10.  I came to appreciate the process of cooking a meal from scratch, including the slaughtering of the meat.  The dinner menu varied but typically included some sort of meat stew (chicken, goat, rabbit), some cooked vegetable (cabbage, kale, spinach), and either rice or ugali (maize flour & water combined to make a sort of paste) or my favorite, chapati….a “Kenyan tortilla”
-After dinner we typically would have long discussions about politics, culture, healthcare…or watch the news or Kenyan soap operas
-11ish…Off to bed….I was always exhausted!

Aside from Sunday (which is treated like a holiday), this was pretty much was daily life.  There was an ease about it, though I will admit not having a set plan was frustrating at times!  I came to realize that although my life at home is arguably busy in that I juggle my time and energy between many different things, I also am incredibly spoiled that I do not have to spend nearly as much time on necessary tasks like preparing food, washing clothes, washing dishes, walking places (or sitting in AWFUL Nairobi traffic), and constant cleaning (as everything is seemingly always dirty).  Life for the average Kenyan is much less about trying to do as much as possible in 24 hours than it is about 1) surviving and 2) spending time with people, and a close third…going to church.

I wish I could have blogged in real-time, but I did not have ready access to Internet.  I did keep a journal, so I wanted to share a few excerpts from that.

                Sometimes I think ‘why are people so afraid to go to a place like this’ and then little by little, I am reminded of some of the things that take some getting used to….like sleeping under a mosquito net, or wearing clothes that cover as much of your body as possible, even if it is hot and humid.  Or that running water is a luxury and hot running water is royalty.  That the roads are bumpy and the traffic rules seem more optional.  That you need flip flops in the bathroom and that dinner may be something you have never seen and you will not only eat it, but have seconds.  That even though people speak English, sometimes you have no idea what they are saying.  But I feel at home and at peace.  I love the smells, the activity, the way Kenyans have adapted to their circumstances.

                I just witnessed the epitome of globalization.  Francisca was holding a live, bound chicken (aka dinner) in one hand and digging through her purse for her cellphone with the other…while we were climbing in a matatu already full of ~18 people.

             
The chapati I made all by myself!
   Today I attended church, and I couldn’t help but think with all these churches in Nairobi, how many are actively engaging with their communities?  Maybe most of the parishioners are low income themselves.  Of course, I could ask the same question of churches in Clovis/Fresno and what ministries they are doing for the homeless, for the poor, for the mentally ill, for the sick, etc.  I guess it seems like if we are really acting as the body of Christ and living the life we say we believe in…shouldn’t our communities be noticeably transformed?  I am wrestling with many questions that I have been asked over the past few years…why not invest in your home community?  Why spend so much money on travel & trip costs when that could be used in the U.S.?  Shouldn’t Kenya take care of their own?  Aren’t they going to become reliant on donor support?  I must say all my critics have some valid points.  And at this point, I don’t have any good answers.  I personally think it must be both – I would be a hypocrite if I wasn’t willing to love and serve people in my town or at my job.  But I guess I can’t just say ‘oh that’s too bad’ regarding the things I have witnessed in Kenya – whether it is my responsibility or not.


Much more to come…I will describe the clinic, the patient population, and the incredible work that is done there in the next post, so stay tuned!

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