Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Kenya Reflections Part II: The Mzungu



It is not uncommon when traveling to a developing country to see the world with new eyes.  But seeing the disparity, the hunger, the sickness, the corruption is not enough.  It is like being a witness to a crime and deciding not to testify.  Though there are many challenges (and numerous failures) of charitable work, I believe saying and doing nothing is almost always worse than doing something.  I have not always "done it right."  One occasion immediately comes to mind.  It was during my first visit to Kenya in 2006.  I went with a rather large church group, and we were in a much more rural part of Kenya.  One day, we put on a carnival for kids in the surrounding area.  Mistake (or 'learning opportunity') number 1 = trying to replicate a very American event in a foreign country.  I was assigned to "toss the ball into the cup" game - the one where there are small prizes in the cup and if you land the ball into that cup, you win the prize.  Even as I type this, I am laughing because it just was not a good idea!  So I am setting up this game, and of course the kids are already flooding the area and I failed at my attempt to have them line up.  In the midst of trying to regain some order, the kids begin to stop the prizes, which were mostly candy if I remember correctly, and all of a sudden, I have been trampled by a herd of children diving for candy.  I was the dog at the bottom of the dog pile.  I couldn't see anything, I couldn't move, and I remember thinking....We were so stupid!  Why didn't we think this through???  These kids probably haven't eaten all day, so can I really blame them for trampling me to get a Tootsie roll??  And then I heard a man shouting and the snapping of a whip.  (I can barely type this without crying).  Upon realizing the American girl was at the bottom of a pile of hungry Kenyan children, one of men that were hosting our team took action.  A few harsh words and the crack of the whip to rescue me.  Though he kept apologizing, it was me that was ashamed and embarrassed.  These kids had never been to a carnival ..how were they suppose to know you had to stand in a line, wait your turn, and play a game?  All they knew was that they were hungry and there was something to eat.  This encounter likely portrays these kids as uncivilized and out of control, but that is only looking from an outsider's perspective.  The truth is these children were joyful, affectionate, resilient, and longed for attention and love.  Had we Americans truly reached out and met these kids where they were at, assessed their needs, and engaged in a culturally appropriate activity, I may not still be haunted by the memory of that day and the sight of the whip corralling the children.  I wish I had reached out and held them in my arms.  I wish I had taught them the Hokey Pokey.  I wish instead of pieces of candy I could have given them clean water, three meals a day, and a clean pair of clothes.  Wishful thinking, perhaps, but I knew if I ever went back, something had to change.

Funny thing...I had every intention of this being a blog about health care and the clinic.  But God tends to put things on my heart that burn so strongly, I cannot put them aside.  Several months ago, I finally read the book, When Helping Hurts.  It was one of books I always wanted to read, but hadn't ever gotten around to actually doing it.  I was under the impression that this was a book about how helping others can be emotionally taxing and how to keep oneself from carrying the burdens of the world.  Of course it would be a sort of self-help book about MY needs, right?  Well, I soon found out that is not at all what the book is about...to the contrary, the book is about how people who are trying to help actually hurt the people they are helping...ouch!  But God always knows what He is doing, and it was exactly what I needed to read and address during this season of life.  How do you go to another country, step into a different culture, see the things you see, and do something about it....while at the same time refrain from making judgments, imposing Western ideals, appearing superior, and acting out of pity....it's definitely not easy and I will say on behalf of the Western world, especially the Christians, we have not always done it very well and have consequently burned a lot of bridges.  A line from the book where the author is telling a story about Uganda...."Finally, there was me, the mzungu, and all which that word represents: money, power, education, money, superiority, and money."  While in the U.S. I may look borderline ethnic due to my mixed background, in Africa, I am white.  I am a mzungu.  No question.  I use to feel really guilty about that, and there are moments I still do.  But during my stay in Kenya this go-around, God really put it on my heart that guilt is not a desirable or fruitful emotion, and that there nothing wrong about being American, rich, or educated - but that there was something wrong with feeling superior, hoarding wealth, or using education solely for personal benefit.  It was a really freeing realization, and gets at the heart of why I started Imani.
Typically, I am not overly moved by "cliche" sayings that inscribed on various merchandise, plastered on social media, and found on the inside of Hallmark greeting cards.  Yet there are a few quotes that never get old for me, and have managed to hold onto their intended meaning and ability to move and inspire.  Mother Teresa's quote...We cannot do great things on this Earth, only small things with great love...is one of them.  "Small things, great love" has been like a personal mantra for me the past few years.  It has continued to remind me that it is more important to evaluate where your heart is than how much you have accomplished.  It reiterates the message that anyone can do small things, and therefore, everyone can make a difference.  Since I founded Imani Care International in July, I have received a lot of personal praise.  I know people mean well and I appreciate the encouragement.  But I didn't start a non-profit organization to add it to my resume or to be a better Christian.  I did it because I had to.  Let me explain that a bit.  No, no one told me I had to do this.  In fact, for a long time, no one even knew this was on my mind!  I was scared.  I normally just stick to the things I am good at, and I wasn't sure this was one of those things.  I didn't want to fail.  I didn't want to let down the people in Kenya, but selfishly, I did not think I could bear exposing the depths of my heart to the world and not have anyone else "catch the vision."  But God persisted, that still small voice the Bible talks about?  Well, God still uses it because He gently nudged me and eventually my heart softened, my anxieties waned, and my faith multiplied.  This dream was no longer my dream...it was God's plan.  Looking back on the past 8 months, I just smile because God is so faithful and so present.  Occasionally I get a bit stressed and overwhelmed, but I am constantly being reminded that Imani really is just a small extension of God's work and presence around the world.  And to be a part of it is more rewarding than anything else.  

Am I trying to say everyone should start a non-profit or go to Africa?  No, not necessarily.  But it is my hope and prayer that we don't sit on the sidelines and bear witness to the realities of our world when we all have some capacity to do something small with a lot of love.  You know what meant the most to the people I spent time with in Kenya?  It wasn't the medical supplies I brought or the fact that I am from California (and therefore a celebrity) or the possibility that I could fix all their problems.  It was that I came and was willing to spend time with them, in the clinic, and in the slum.  That a mzungu from "the best state in America" would fly on many planes to come sit with a bedridden patient in the slum.  It wasn't heroic.  It was a simple act of love.  

P.S.  I promise I will write more about the clinic & healthcare in Kenya soon :)

Friday, April 5, 2013

Trip Reflection Part I: Culture Shock


The title of this blog [Alyssa’s Kenya Adventure] is quite a fitting description for the 2 ½ weeks I spent in Nairobi last month.  I find it difficult to give a quick answer to the question “How was your trip?” because travelling halfway around the world to visit a health clinic is a bit different than going on a vacation.  In this first blog installment, I will attempt to bring you to Nairobi and give you a taste of the beauty, the challenges, the sights, and the people.  Enjoy.
 
The road the clinic is on
Let’s cover some of the basics of traveling to Kenya.  It takes around 21 flight hours and over 30 hours travel time to get to Nairobi, Kenya from Fresno.  Don’t forget to add in the 10 hour time difference!  For the most part, I actually enjoy airports and airplanes.  I like to think I have certain aspects of the traveling process down to a science…like going through security.  In terms of going through customs, it is relatively easy and I bought my tourist visa at the airport for $50.  My luggage arrived, which is always a small miracle.  I was greeted at the airport by Peter & Francisca Inoti, my host and the founders of the clinic.  And the adventure began…
Peter & Francisca and 2 of their 4 sons
My host family live in a modest, middle class home in a section of Nairobi called Imara Daima.  {No, I did not stay in a grass or mud hut, though they do exist in other parts of Kenya}  Imagine a suburban subdivision, though add in a few more animals and a few less luxuries like washing machines and kitchen appliances.  I was spoiled with my own room and bathroom, as their two youngest sons were away at boarding school.  Most days we had running water and electricity, though this was not a given.  I slept underneath a mosquito net and brushed my teeth with the bottled water I saved each day.

A typical day…
-Wake up around 8am.  I was glad there didn’t seem to be any rush to get out of the house!
-Shower (sometimes running water, sometimes a bucket), get dressed…I typically wore a long skirt and T-shirt (how I still managed to get hit on was truly a mystery!), spray myself with mosquito repellent & sunscreen, and slap on a little makeup
-Breakfast.  Some menu items included boiled sweet potatoes, mandaazi (fried bread), hard-boiled eggs, mango, bananas, bread, and always tea.  Their tea is heavy on the milk and sugar, and light on the tea.  I always struggled to drink even half a mug-full. 
-Head to the clinic around 10ish.  Kenyans are not time-oriented, so it is best not to expect a schedule or to make specific plans.  They live about a 15 minute walk from the clinic, though sometimes Peter would drive us, as he ran errands throughout the day.
-Spend the day at the clinic and eat lunch from the lady who runs a small restaurant across the way
-Sometimes in the afternoons, I would go with Peter into town to run errands or to pay someone a visit
-Go home sometime in the evening, anywhere between 5 and 8, depending on how busy the clinic was, if it was raining, if we were going to walk or take a matatu…
-Rest while dinner was being prepared…some days I took a nap, other times I journaled or read Les Miserables
Dinner
-Dinner around 9:30 or 10.  I came to appreciate the process of cooking a meal from scratch, including the slaughtering of the meat.  The dinner menu varied but typically included some sort of meat stew (chicken, goat, rabbit), some cooked vegetable (cabbage, kale, spinach), and either rice or ugali (maize flour & water combined to make a sort of paste) or my favorite, chapati….a “Kenyan tortilla”
-After dinner we typically would have long discussions about politics, culture, healthcare…or watch the news or Kenyan soap operas
-11ish…Off to bed….I was always exhausted!

Aside from Sunday (which is treated like a holiday), this was pretty much was daily life.  There was an ease about it, though I will admit not having a set plan was frustrating at times!  I came to realize that although my life at home is arguably busy in that I juggle my time and energy between many different things, I also am incredibly spoiled that I do not have to spend nearly as much time on necessary tasks like preparing food, washing clothes, washing dishes, walking places (or sitting in AWFUL Nairobi traffic), and constant cleaning (as everything is seemingly always dirty).  Life for the average Kenyan is much less about trying to do as much as possible in 24 hours than it is about 1) surviving and 2) spending time with people, and a close third…going to church.

I wish I could have blogged in real-time, but I did not have ready access to Internet.  I did keep a journal, so I wanted to share a few excerpts from that.

                Sometimes I think ‘why are people so afraid to go to a place like this’ and then little by little, I am reminded of some of the things that take some getting used to….like sleeping under a mosquito net, or wearing clothes that cover as much of your body as possible, even if it is hot and humid.  Or that running water is a luxury and hot running water is royalty.  That the roads are bumpy and the traffic rules seem more optional.  That you need flip flops in the bathroom and that dinner may be something you have never seen and you will not only eat it, but have seconds.  That even though people speak English, sometimes you have no idea what they are saying.  But I feel at home and at peace.  I love the smells, the activity, the way Kenyans have adapted to their circumstances.

                I just witnessed the epitome of globalization.  Francisca was holding a live, bound chicken (aka dinner) in one hand and digging through her purse for her cellphone with the other…while we were climbing in a matatu already full of ~18 people.

             
The chapati I made all by myself!
   Today I attended church, and I couldn’t help but think with all these churches in Nairobi, how many are actively engaging with their communities?  Maybe most of the parishioners are low income themselves.  Of course, I could ask the same question of churches in Clovis/Fresno and what ministries they are doing for the homeless, for the poor, for the mentally ill, for the sick, etc.  I guess it seems like if we are really acting as the body of Christ and living the life we say we believe in…shouldn’t our communities be noticeably transformed?  I am wrestling with many questions that I have been asked over the past few years…why not invest in your home community?  Why spend so much money on travel & trip costs when that could be used in the U.S.?  Shouldn’t Kenya take care of their own?  Aren’t they going to become reliant on donor support?  I must say all my critics have some valid points.  And at this point, I don’t have any good answers.  I personally think it must be both – I would be a hypocrite if I wasn’t willing to love and serve people in my town or at my job.  But I guess I can’t just say ‘oh that’s too bad’ regarding the things I have witnessed in Kenya – whether it is my responsibility or not.


Much more to come…I will describe the clinic, the patient population, and the incredible work that is done there in the next post, so stay tuned!